The “Hypoallergenic” Myth: All About Metals pt.2

Let me start out by saying that skin reactions to metal are VERY real — I'm not writing this article to argue against that, as I suffer from it myself, along with many other people I know. However, with that out of the way, "hypoallergenic" is a made-up word that isn't backed by any regulation or requirements, in the same way that "all natural" and similar terms in food are unregulated. What I mean by that is that sellers who label their metals or products as hypoallergenic face no regulation over the actual metal content. You can sell metal containing nickel — one of the most reactive metals out there — and label it "hypoallergenic" with no oversight apart from customer feedback or legal action. This gets increasingly complex when you factor in companies based in other countries, or pop-up shops that sell falsely advertised metals and then disappear or become impossible to contact.

So how can you know what the metal content of an item actually is? It comes down to due diligence — on the part of the maker/seller and yourself as a consumer. The maker can take the time to research the metals they use and choose not to work with materials that don't publicly disclose their metal type or content. Consumers can ask the maker or seller what metals are used in their pieces. In my previous blog about metals (found here), I talked about the metals I use, their content, and how they differ. In this post, I want to touch on the specific disservices I think consumers are given, and how everyone can become more knowledgeable about metal.

Stainless Steel

I have never really worked with stainless steel as of writing this post — the most I've encountered it is in food-grade settings, like my pots and pans. However, since I began lampworking I've discovered that there are MANY versions of stainless steel because it's an alloy. An alloy is a metal made by combining elements or other metals together. For instance, sterling silver is an alloy made mostly of silver (92.5% fine silver is required), but the remaining 7.5% can be any other metal — it's typically copper, and unfortunately can sometimes contain nickel. Side note: if you've ever reacted to sterling silver earrings, that was probably why. The opposite of an alloy is a pure metal, like niobium, copper, or fine silver, each of which has its own pluses and minuses. The benefit of an alloy like sterling silver is that you can manipulate its color, hardness, and other properties, whereas pure metals are "what you see is what you get" — aside from potentially being anodized or oxidized.

Stainless steel is typically made with iron-based alloys like chromium, plus other elements including nickel, nitrogen, carbon, or molybdenum.(1) Yes, you read that correctly — nickel CAN be found in stainless steel, though it's not always present. Fortunately, steel is graded by the AISI (American Iron and Steel Institute) as well as other grading systems with industrial standards for different uses (culinary, construction, jewelry, etc.). Well over 3,500 grades of steel exist, but I'll highlight a few relevant ones using the SAE grading system:(2)

• 304 Stainless Steel: Contains 8% nickel and accounts for the majority of manufactured stainless steel. It's the most economical option, largely because of its nickel content.

• 316 Stainless Steel: Contains 6–20% nickel (all 300-series stainless steel falls within this range).

• 430 Stainless Steel: Contains NO nickel — this is actually a requirement of the 430 grade. All 400-series stainless steel contains 11% chromium and 1% more manganese than 300-series grades, which makes it slightly magnetic.

Unfortunately, many jewelry components — chain, wire, findings — tend to be 300-series steels and contain some amount of nickel. That said, I don't want anyone to throw out their stainless steel jewelry. Whether you can wear it really comes down to your individual sensitivity to nickel, and the majority of people likely won't react to less than 10% nickel content. It also matters where the metal contacts your body — anything worn externally (not earring hooks, studs, or anything that goes through the skin) will have much less effect than sub-dermal metal. Speaking personally, I react to copper in my ears, and wearing a bare copper ring for long periods will cause a mild reaction for me (slight burning) — however, I've worn a copper pendant for over two years and have never felt anything on my skin from it.

Niobium

Niobium is an element on the periodic table (its symbol is Nb), meaning it's a pure metal in its natural form. It's classified as a transition metal, found in row 5, column 5, right next to Zirconium. It has several uses including aerospace technology, and is most commonly used to alloy steel to improve its properties — but because of its low toxicity, inert nature, and natural iridescence, it's also popular in jewelry.

Since niobium is a pure transition metal, it's much easier to know whether you're actually allergic to it, because in its normal form it won't contain any other metals or elements. In other words, niobium is reliable — truly "what you see is what you get." There's no guessing whether it was the niobium or something else in the mix that caused a reaction, and that's a big reason I love working with it. I have sensitive ears (likely to nickel and copper), and I've worn niobium in my ears daily for multiple years. Not only does it not cause any reaction, but it's also a smooth, solid hook that is unlikely to deform, tarnish, or change color.

Conclusion

What does all of this mean for you as a consumer or a maker? It means that doing your homework matters. Labels like "hypoallergenic" or "nickel-free" are only as trustworthy as the seller using them, and without regulation, those words can mean very little. The best protection you have is knowing what metals are actually in your jewelry — and that requires asking questions and seeking out makers who are transparent about their materials.

As a maker myself, I take that responsibility seriously. I choose metals whose content I can verify and speak to with confidence — and when I can't verify it, I don't use it. Whether you have sensitive skin or not, you deserve to know exactly what you're putting in or on your body. The more informed we all are, the higher the standard we can collectively hold the industry to.

1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel  

2. https://www.kloecknermetals.com/blog/a-short-guide-to-grades-of-stainless-steel/

*Heading picture is from ReactiveMetals.com and features niobium hooks